I’m back in the USA after a great trip to New Zealand and the opportunity to attend WOMAD Taranaki after a two year absence. You might have already read my WOMAD diaries: three editions of EarthSouNZ written on-site in New Zealand. Now’s my chance to reflect on the festival and to show some more photos.
Whilst WOMAD tries not to have a “Star” system there’s n0 doubt that there are headline acts that jump out when you first look through the programme at its launch some four months before the festival. WOMAD is a kind of touring celebration that pulls in local artists in each country as well as mixing some who can’t commit to the whole season, and it’s artists like Salif Keita, Hugh Masakela and Jimmy Cliff who will have attracted the crowds, with others like Vieux Farka Toure, The Correspondents and Jordi Savall not far away, although Savall is probably better known to classical music fans than those whose tastes are more mainstream.
Hugh Masekela on opening night – Bowl Stage
An attentive audience for Jordi Savall
Some things had changed since I last attended the festival. I enjoyed the larger Chimney stage area, a big improvement from an space that was always cramped for the audience. The range of “over 65” seating areas was greater, and the addition of “supporter” areas, with seats, tables etc was a useful money-spinner for the organisers as well as offering those who could afford the extra $100 a chance to find some respite from the throng whilst enjoying the song.
The last time I saw Salif Keita at WOMAD NZ it poured with rain. This year New Zealand has had a summer to remember, long hot days and no rain; with water restrictions and threats to agriculture. So Keita’s performance, on a day when the first rain for months was predicted was a portent of much needed refreshment and soaking t shirts and shorts. As it happened the rain was no show-stopper and will have dampened very few spirits on the last day of what has been hailed as the best WOMAD NZ for years, if not the best ever.
Salif Keita
Highs and Lows? it’s hard to start. Of course I didn’t get to everything so my views are of just a sample of the delights on offer. A less-than-delight was the sound of NZ band AHoriBuzz shouting obscenities across the crowd at the Gables stage with families and young children passing by. This is not a good look for New Zealand music; I’m no prude but do draw the line at this. What made it even more disappointing was the presence in the band of some very talented New Zealand musicians like Jonathan Crayford and L.A.Mitchell. AhoriBuzz front man Aaron Tokona looked like Alamein Kopu (played by Taika Waititi in his movie “Boy”) so it’s possible to think of the band as an ironic statement; try telling that to the parents of 6 years olds in the crowd.
Having dealt with that, here’s a selection of “highs” from WOMAD
I loved Jordi Savall‘s performance in the Taste the World tent, (sheltering his 17th century bass viol from the Taranaki wind and rain) playing old Celtic music on ancient instruments on St. Patrick’s Day. His immaculate attention to detail and lively music making was enough to pack the tent and enthral an audience of all ages. Joined by Andrew Lawrence–King on Irish harp and psalterium and Frank McGuire on bodhran, the trio provided an excellent balance and showed how intensely a WOMAD audience can listen to music that is quietly, yet energetically, played.
Jordi Savall, Andrew Lawrence–King and Frank McGuire on the Gables Stage
Jordi Savall’s exquisite touch on the Treble Viol
Vieux Farka Touré showed great aplomb as a guitarist and crowd engager, demonstrating how much West African music is drawing from western music in ways that do not compromise its integrity.
Vieux Farka Touré
I was impressed by Bassakou Kouyaté, with his band Ngoni Ba. The ngoni is a relatively obscure african intrument that comes in different sizes, looks so simple and yet can be played with great force and complexity. This was electric African music in a form that spoke easily to the predominantly western crowd.
Bassekou Kouyaté and Ngoni Ba
I was privileged to both meet and hear Abigail Washburn, not your average Appalachian mountain singer. Together with Kai Welch (who played everything from fiddle and keyboard to trumpet and guitar) Abigail drew from her pantheon of original and traditional music, inspired by the folk traditions of Appalachia, played and sung with strength; her open-backed banjo offering who knows what to her yet-to-be born infant son. Check out my interview with her, where she talks about her relationship with China and being a pregnant musician.
Abigail Washburn and Kai Welch
I enjoyed Grace Barbé, as much for the colours she brought to the stage as her music. Originating from the Seychelles she played a range of self-penned songs in a style she calls Afro-Kreole, melodic and rhythmically strong; accompanying herself on electric guitar with an accomplished and well-rehearsed multi-ethnic Australia-based band.
Grace Barbé
You can’t walk away from the Melbourne Ska Orchestra – a 30 piece horn-led band organised, conducted and energised by drummer Nicky Bomba. This band feeds and feeds off the party spirit that is generated by their mix of ska, bluebeat and reggae. Party on stage, Party in the crowd – is the lasting impression of this group. Listen to my interview with Nicky Bomba where he talks about the history of the band and their new album, with musical extracts.
Nicky Bomba (drums) on shared vocals
Melbourne Ska Orchestra – Bowl Stage
Whilst we are with horn-led bands I must give a brief mention of Wellington-based Newtown Rock Steady who presented a well-played and entertaining set.
Newtown Rocksteady
It was good to see many horn-led bands at WOMAD. Traditionally prohibitively expensive to transport to gigs, the representation at WOMAD mirrored a world-wide enthusiasm for real, live horn sections that have their origins in Soul, Big Band Music, Jazz, and Brass Bands that go back as far as 16th century Venice and 12th century sackbutts and cornetts. The big sound of these groups was even present in UK duo, The Correspondents, in their choices of multi-genre recorded tracks and samples for a hugely energetic performance on the last night of the festival.
Mr. Bruce of The Correspondents
Sudha Ragunathan offering a meditative balance on the Chimney Stage
B V Raghavendra Rao
Lau, a UK-based folk trio who represented the new spirit of British folk music to a Southern Hemisphere audience, many of whom will have Celtic ancestors.
Fans eager to hear The Correspondents
Mussel Fritters won the Hathaway Prize for “go back and get some more”!
Definitely outdoor instruments!
The Human Library – a brilliant way of gaining insight into others’ lives.
Chucks and Mr Bruce – The Correspondents
Marie Boine, majestic calls from the North
Jimmy Cliff
Yes, a thoroughly enjoyable festival in what is recognised as the best WOMAD location in the world. I hear that there is a possibility that WOMAD might, again, try its luck in North America – this time in Vancouver, Canada. Good luck to them, this is a festival that is unrivalled as a family-friendly event that caters for ALL ages!
EarthSouNZ 